Our civilization teacher, Nina Mikhailovna, called us her American optimists, because although our mid-term and final papers for her course about Russia were full of analyses of Russia's crises and problems, we shared an American tendency to end on an uplifting note. Nearly all of our conclusions read positively about the changes going on in Russia today and where it is certainly headed in the future. Russians, no surprise given their history, tend more towards fatalism and acceptance of what will come. Что делать? (What is to be done?) is the question of the decade for them. Still, we American students see a bright future ahead, and aren't afraid to speak out about it.
I am under no delusions here. Russia has some very serious problems to tackle (the demographic crisis and political corruption come instantly to mind.) Life is hard, and my interactions with Russians only show how much of an obstacle the mindset of the 70 years under the Soviet state is to a new democratic and capitalist state. However, I truly do believe Russia's future is bright. So many positive changes have been made since the early 1990s, and even on an international field the country is making progress. I leave with the hope to return to an even better Russia in the future.
So here's to Russia and its future!
See you soon, America :)
Love
Эмили
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Friday, December 17, 2010
What I Will Miss About Россия (Russia)
On the first day of my Russian civilization class, we each read a list of things we loved the most and things we hated the most about America. On the last day of class, we prepared and read lists of the things we loved most and hated the most about Russia. It gave me an idea to post an embellished version of that list (just for you guys!) on my blog on my last night in Russia (can you believe it? I know I can't!).
Things I Will Miss About Russia
I love the importance of culture in this town. As my friend Marguerite said, History is a living, breathing thing here. These beautiful buildings and streets have experienced monarchy, Communism, war. This city was founded fifty years before American was. Literature is more important than politics, art is more important than pop culture. The ballet is four times cheaper than seeing Elton John. What a refined way of thinking.
I love finding warmth where you least expect it. Everything and everyone seems cold and harsh in Russia, which made adapting a total nightmare. Instead of focusing on the frowns, the apparent indifference to my presence on that part of the sidewalk, the grating tone of annoyance by the cashier, by the end of the semester I found absolute joy in unexpected warmth and disregarded everything else. No, I don't remember if the crowd shoved me into my metro car Wednesday morning (chances are good.) Yes, I do remember the woman who stepped on my toe and kept tapping my shoulder until I took out my headphones so she could apologize warmly, the man who made room and motioned me into the train car when I looked at the packed space with weak hope, or the waitress who smiled at my imperfect Russian and took the time to understand me anyway.
I don't know what it is, but something drew me to this country. It was such a wonderful blessing to find 71 other college students who felt the same. I love the American friends I made here - so many amazing young people so willing to support and connect with strangers who shared class space with them for a mere four months. It has been amazing getting through this tough experience with them at my side, and I cannot imagine exploring the country without them! (love you guys.) Our teachers were awesome. Through them I really got to see the warm, caring side Russians share with close friends and family, and they taught us so much about their subjects and about their lives here. What a semester! Hardest, most enriching, most inspiring, most instructive and, конечно, the COLDEST semester of my life. I may be leaving tomorrow, but I have a feeling that I will return someday. Russia hasn't quite finished with me yet.
Эмили
Things I Will Miss About Russia
- The Cyrillic Alphabet (love those symbols everywhere!)
- Drinking hot tea constantly
- Small Russian children in puffy, mono-colored snowsuits
- Blini. (Host mom's. Teremok's. Chainaya Lozhka's. With honey. With chicken and mushrooms. With chocolate and bananas.)
- The Winter Palace
- Stiletto-heeled boots and Russian women
- Cheap public transportation
- Feet of snow on the ground (CRYSTALLIZED snowflakes)
- The Russian Ballet
- Продукты (urm, 24hr cheap holes-in-the-wall with food and beverages, found every 20ft in all of Russia)
- Russian cuisine: warm, filling, appetizing. Potatoes, pelmeni, soup, tea, and cmetana!
- Lack of copyright laws (read: unlimited, free movies and TV shows without ads or commercials)
- The Neva, the Fontanka, the Moika, and the Griboedova Canal
- Orthodox churches
- All of St. Petersburg
I love the importance of culture in this town. As my friend Marguerite said, History is a living, breathing thing here. These beautiful buildings and streets have experienced monarchy, Communism, war. This city was founded fifty years before American was. Literature is more important than politics, art is more important than pop culture. The ballet is four times cheaper than seeing Elton John. What a refined way of thinking.
I love finding warmth where you least expect it. Everything and everyone seems cold and harsh in Russia, which made adapting a total nightmare. Instead of focusing on the frowns, the apparent indifference to my presence on that part of the sidewalk, the grating tone of annoyance by the cashier, by the end of the semester I found absolute joy in unexpected warmth and disregarded everything else. No, I don't remember if the crowd shoved me into my metro car Wednesday morning (chances are good.) Yes, I do remember the woman who stepped on my toe and kept tapping my shoulder until I took out my headphones so she could apologize warmly, the man who made room and motioned me into the train car when I looked at the packed space with weak hope, or the waitress who smiled at my imperfect Russian and took the time to understand me anyway.
I don't know what it is, but something drew me to this country. It was such a wonderful blessing to find 71 other college students who felt the same. I love the American friends I made here - so many amazing young people so willing to support and connect with strangers who shared class space with them for a mere four months. It has been amazing getting through this tough experience with them at my side, and I cannot imagine exploring the country without them! (love you guys.) Our teachers were awesome. Through them I really got to see the warm, caring side Russians share with close friends and family, and they taught us so much about their subjects and about their lives here. What a semester! Hardest, most enriching, most inspiring, most instructive and, конечно, the COLDEST semester of my life. I may be leaving tomorrow, but I have a feeling that I will return someday. Russia hasn't quite finished with me yet.
Эмили
Friday, December 10, 2010
Update on the Russian Winter
Sorry Russia, I jinxed you.
Yesterday I mentioned a warm spell and talked about the Russian Winter like it was nothing.
Today I woke up and found a very deep, very snowy winterland. The sidewalks and streets are rarely if ever shoveled, so I got to carve my own way through 1.5ft of snow... And then walked the rest of the way to school in a mild blizzard. Oh Russia. This afternoon Alison and I trekked to the Marble Palace (fail). Waited for the marshrutka in the snow for about half an hour, got frustrated with the traffic, and got out early only to be stuck cutting through the Field of Mars (pictured above) with snow pretty much at our waists. Hooray! We warmed ourselves by the Eternal Flame then went the rest of the way to the Palace to find it closed. Awesome. Anyway it turned out to be pretty funny since the snow (and everything else) was so ridiculous.
I would say at least it isn't too cold, but I don't want to go outside tomorrow only to find my eyelashes freezing together, so I won't say it!
Stay warm! love, Эмили
Yesterday I mentioned a warm spell and talked about the Russian Winter like it was nothing.
Today I woke up and found a very deep, very snowy winterland. The sidewalks and streets are rarely if ever shoveled, so I got to carve my own way through 1.5ft of snow... And then walked the rest of the way to school in a mild blizzard. Oh Russia. This afternoon Alison and I trekked to the Marble Palace (fail). Waited for the marshrutka in the snow for about half an hour, got frustrated with the traffic, and got out early only to be stuck cutting through the Field of Mars (pictured above) with snow pretty much at our waists. Hooray! We warmed ourselves by the Eternal Flame then went the rest of the way to the Palace to find it closed. Awesome. Anyway it turned out to be pretty funny since the snow (and everything else) was so ridiculous.
I would say at least it isn't too cold, but I don't want to go outside tomorrow only to find my eyelashes freezing together, so I won't say it!
Stay warm! love, Эмили
Thursday, December 9, 2010
The Russian Winter
Infamous. Picturesque. Impossible. Russia is without a doubt most known for its terrible winters (though I imagine a solid proportion of Americans would be surprised to know that much of Russia has green grass for most of the year).
I still remember a conversation class here in October about the climate.
Russian teacher: "(in Russian) What do you think of the climate in Petersburg?"
Me: "Um, климат холодный?" ("Um, it's cold?")
Teacher: "(in Russian) No, no. Not a cold climate. What else?"
Me: "(in Russian) Wet, windy... what do you mean this isn't a cold climate?!"
Apparently the Gulf of Finland 'warms' Petersburg. I understand it is not a cold climate on a relative-to-Russia basis, but I find it EXTREMELY cold on a relative-to-Florida basis, and I could use some understanding. (Just kidding, our conversation teacher is a sweetheart!)
Anyway it has officially been winter for 17 days, and I can say I have survived it quite well thus far!
1. Layers
I have been wearing leggings since mid-October. I started wearing two pairs of leggings two weeks ago when the temperature got into the negative double digits. As I put it to friends one morning waiting for the bus, a warm Emily is a nice Emily. Additionally I got a warm floppy beanie, wear Estonian mittens over leather gloves, and my scarf weighs about a pound.
2. Снег (you guys remember this word? snow!)
About three weeks ago it snowed so much I had trouble getting the door to the outside open - definitely a first for me. It snowed nonstop for a week- not exaggerating! I have walked to school three times in a blizzard, watched my boot disappear several times in snow softer than it appeared, and slipped and fell once (and almost a million times) on the icy sidewalk. The rivers are frozen and they have snow piled up on top of the ice, which is neat. Did you know when it is cold enough snowflakes actually crystallize into those unique little shapes I thought Hallmark made up? Because they do!
3. Icicles (of Death)
I can't decide whether it is better to look up (and look out) or to just stay on the edge of the sidewalk and walk fast. There are pretty much on every other building, which is scary. Some are probably two or three feet long and thick - but under the biggest, sharpest ones they usually block off the sidewalk, so don't worry! Anyway it has added a sense of adventure and thrill to my usual walks around the city.
Don't freeze over in the States (I hear it is sort of cold...) :)
More later!
Эмили
ps: We're having a 'warm' spell. Perhaps that is why I'm able to write such a positive blog on the Russian Winter!
I still remember a conversation class here in October about the climate.
Russian teacher: "(in Russian) What do you think of the climate in Petersburg?"
Me: "Um, климат холодный?" ("Um, it's cold?")
Teacher: "(in Russian) No, no. Not a cold climate. What else?"
Me: "(in Russian) Wet, windy... what do you mean this isn't a cold climate?!"
Apparently the Gulf of Finland 'warms' Petersburg. I understand it is not a cold climate on a relative-to-Russia basis, but I find it EXTREMELY cold on a relative-to-Florida basis, and I could use some understanding. (Just kidding, our conversation teacher is a sweetheart!)
Anyway it has officially been winter for 17 days, and I can say I have survived it quite well thus far!
1. Layers
I have been wearing leggings since mid-October. I started wearing two pairs of leggings two weeks ago when the temperature got into the negative double digits. As I put it to friends one morning waiting for the bus, a warm Emily is a nice Emily. Additionally I got a warm floppy beanie, wear Estonian mittens over leather gloves, and my scarf weighs about a pound.
2. Снег (you guys remember this word? snow!)
About three weeks ago it snowed so much I had trouble getting the door to the outside open - definitely a first for me. It snowed nonstop for a week- not exaggerating! I have walked to school three times in a blizzard, watched my boot disappear several times in snow softer than it appeared, and slipped and fell once (and almost a million times) on the icy sidewalk. The rivers are frozen and they have snow piled up on top of the ice, which is neat. Did you know when it is cold enough snowflakes actually crystallize into those unique little shapes I thought Hallmark made up? Because they do!
3. Icicles (of Death)
I can't decide whether it is better to look up (and look out) or to just stay on the edge of the sidewalk and walk fast. There are pretty much on every other building, which is scary. Some are probably two or three feet long and thick - but under the biggest, sharpest ones they usually block off the sidewalk, so don't worry! Anyway it has added a sense of adventure and thrill to my usual walks around the city.
Don't freeze over in the States (I hear it is sort of cold...) :)
More later!
Эмили
ps: We're having a 'warm' spell. Perhaps that is why I'm able to write such a positive blog on the Russian Winter!
Saturday, November 27, 2010
The Hermitage is My Favorite
If you ever come to St. Petersburg, here is a recommendation for you: get lost in the Hermitage. It's pretty inevitable that you will get lost anyway - the Russian managers keep everyone on their toes by closing rooms and staircases at whim - but especially if you tend to have a controlling, type-A personality, just get lost. I didn't expect it today: I had a map on which I marked my trekked path with check marks, and I have been inside the Hermitage four or five times already so I figured I was familiar with the basic layout. It's pretty fun to think you're hot stuff in the Hermitage, to feel like you've at least walked past most of the rooms, and to find yourself in an entirely new wing or even building ("wait, they have archaeological artifacts in here??"). Anyway, after some quality wanderings and map consultations I found an exit, notably not the one I anticipated.
What makes the Hermitage stand out from all other art museums in the world is the amazing history packed into the palace itself. The Winter Palace was:
-the permanent residence of the Russian tsars until 1881
-the scene of an assassination attempt on Tsar Alexander II
-a temporary residence of the Romanov family
-the scene of the 1905 Bloody Sunday protest against the monarchy
-the meeting place when the last tsar Nicholas II reluctantly created the first Duma (Russian parliament)
-used in part for a military hospital during WWI
-the meeting place of the Provisional Government after the Russian Revolution
-stormed by the Bolsheviks when they arrested the Provisional Government and took control
-subject to stripping of Imperial symbols under the Soviets
As I walked through, I kept wanting to know what this or that room used to be - often impossible questions because the Palace has changed hands so many times!
 |
| Today (literally) |
 |
 |
 |
| Malachite Room - Meetings of Provisional Government |
 |
| Imperial Dining Room - Arrest of Provisonal Government |
Don't even get me started on the art collection. Artifacts from Ancient Egypt, European art, Asian art, Byzantine art - today I found the third floor, lol, (shared feelings of accomplishment with about eight other people) and enjoyed a wing of Picasso, Matisse, Gaugain, Rodin, and VanGogh. The only shame is that the history of interiors of the palace tend to overshadow the art for us poor visitors. :)
A wonderful way to spend a cold, snowy day!
Эмили
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Thanksgiving - День Благодарения (try remembering that one!)
Happy Thanksgiving, Americans :]
Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. I didn't dwell on being over here for it too much (considering my other option was studying here in -35 degree January when, as we learned today, people's eyelashes freeze their eyes shut.) But today had the potential to be very sad. I miss my family (love you mom and dad, who I know are reading!), I miss getting out-of-school for three days, staying in North Carolina with my relatives - and I miss my mom's sweet potato dish.
Credit to CIEE, our program here, for sponsoring a Thanksgiving lunch in the hallway of our university! Jarlath somehow cooked up four turkeys, and a lot of kids (the ones with ovens and liberal host moms in their apartments) scrounged up some of the basic dishes. We had macaroni, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, green bean casseroles, gravy, pumpkin bread, cookies, and lots and lots of pies (Russians do pies cheaply and well.) Standing towards the back of a line of 72 hungry Americans, 8 teachers, and some odd Russians, we fretted about getting enough food. However, in true Thanksgiving style, there was plenty! And though we don't get three days off of school, one class was canceled for the celebration today!
The big SURPRISE to my day was actually dinner. I noticed I got called in to sit down a lot later, but I did not expect to find such a touching meal! My host mom had laid out three plates of mashed potatoes, chicken breast, pumpkin (which I had never had outside of a pie!), some random cucumbers (Russia), and hot red wine, which I had never had before. We ate together and had a really good conversation (and some laughs after my first try at "I've never had hot red wine" came out as "I never drink hot red wine", which I of course corrected). Mom- they thought your turkey card was adorable so I set it up as a table decoration. I randomly thought to bring home some yellow flowers (in odd number, of course) - they were so appropriate; I am so glad I did! Divine intervention.
Anyway, Thanksgiving is nothing like home but it was still special enough to get through! I miss everyone and am so grateful both for this amazing opportunity to live and study in Russia and for my family and friends who have supported me and await my return. Love you all!!!
Wishing love, blessings, and good turkey,
Эмили
Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. I didn't dwell on being over here for it too much (considering my other option was studying here in -35 degree January when, as we learned today, people's eyelashes freeze their eyes shut.) But today had the potential to be very sad. I miss my family (love you mom and dad, who I know are reading!), I miss getting out-of-school for three days, staying in North Carolina with my relatives - and I miss my mom's sweet potato dish.
Credit to CIEE, our program here, for sponsoring a Thanksgiving lunch in the hallway of our university! Jarlath somehow cooked up four turkeys, and a lot of kids (the ones with ovens and liberal host moms in their apartments) scrounged up some of the basic dishes. We had macaroni, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, green bean casseroles, gravy, pumpkin bread, cookies, and lots and lots of pies (Russians do pies cheaply and well.) Standing towards the back of a line of 72 hungry Americans, 8 teachers, and some odd Russians, we fretted about getting enough food. However, in true Thanksgiving style, there was plenty! And though we don't get three days off of school, one class was canceled for the celebration today!
The big SURPRISE to my day was actually dinner. I noticed I got called in to sit down a lot later, but I did not expect to find such a touching meal! My host mom had laid out three plates of mashed potatoes, chicken breast, pumpkin (which I had never had outside of a pie!), some random cucumbers (Russia), and hot red wine, which I had never had before. We ate together and had a really good conversation (and some laughs after my first try at "I've never had hot red wine" came out as "I never drink hot red wine", which I of course corrected). Mom- they thought your turkey card was adorable so I set it up as a table decoration. I randomly thought to bring home some yellow flowers (in odd number, of course) - they were so appropriate; I am so glad I did! Divine intervention.
Anyway, Thanksgiving is nothing like home but it was still special enough to get through! I miss everyone and am so grateful both for this amazing opportunity to live and study in Russia and for my family and friends who have supported me and await my return. Love you all!!!
Wishing love, blessings, and good turkey,
Эмили
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Cinderella, Bongos, and Garry Potter
It is hard to believe I just completed my fifth-to-last week here in Petersburg. I am relieved to feel readjusted to daily life in Russia (that was much faster than the first time!) and, what's more, pleased to have this final month in Petersburg. We certainly took this past week in stride.
Tuesday night: Went to the famed Mariinsky Theater for the first time and am craving a second trip (a week from Tuesday!) I had no idea it was so close to my apartment (see: I Can See Russia From My House) - a simple ten-minute walk in a direction I have never explored before. Peter, Jessica, and I saw Prokofiev's Cinderella ballet. It was excellent and the dancers were amazing, but I prefer Romeo and Juliet. Cinderella was choreographed as a modern ballet, think leather jackets, fire escapes, and a backpack to carry the glass slipper, so that took some adjusting to. Found out afterward my host mom's daughter is friends with the prima ballerina, no way!
Wednesday night: Taught English at a night class for students about my age (or rather, was the token native English speaker for the evening). I enjoyed starting conversations and providing grammar and pronunciation help, and I plan to volunteer there the next four Wednesdays.
Thursday night: LOTS OF SNOW! Which was very exciting for me. Petersburg is beautiful in the snow.
Also enjoyed listening to AFRICAN beat music in a FRENCH cafe in RUSSIA (I know...). It is funny how cultures combine and where you find yourself in different places you visit. Excellent company present made for a wonderful evening.
Friday night: Saw Гарри Поттер (Garry Potter) in a movie theater on Nevsky Prospect. The problem: the only place in Russia you can see Harry Potter in English is in Moscow. Which we found out (naturally) AFTER we bought tickets (at the theater which usually shows English movies with Russian subtitles instead of Russian dubbing). ANYWAY I'm so glad I didn't wait five weeks. It was really awesome to see it and enjoy the effects and plot despite not always being able to follow the fast dialog. Quickly learned some new words (most notably 'wand' is палочка; you can also use the word for baton or chopstick). And some of the translations are pretty hillarious. Sarcasm, for one, translates rather poorly.
There isn't an "h" sound in the Russian language, so Russians generally have a hard time with that letter. My friend Heather gets called "Xiter" and "Xyetr" by most Russians. Anyway, to simplify matters Russia has changed "Harry" to "Garry", Hermione to "Germiona", and Hagrid to "Xagrid". It cracked me up sometimes to hear Emma Watson very seriously turn around and whisper "Garry!". A fun movie in any language!
До скорого,
Эмили
Tuesday night: Went to the famed Mariinsky Theater for the first time and am craving a second trip (a week from Tuesday!) I had no idea it was so close to my apartment (see: I Can See Russia From My House) - a simple ten-minute walk in a direction I have never explored before. Peter, Jessica, and I saw Prokofiev's Cinderella ballet. It was excellent and the dancers were amazing, but I prefer Romeo and Juliet. Cinderella was choreographed as a modern ballet, think leather jackets, fire escapes, and a backpack to carry the glass slipper, so that took some adjusting to. Found out afterward my host mom's daughter is friends with the prima ballerina, no way!
Wednesday night: Taught English at a night class for students about my age (or rather, was the token native English speaker for the evening). I enjoyed starting conversations and providing grammar and pronunciation help, and I plan to volunteer there the next four Wednesdays.
Thursday night: LOTS OF SNOW! Which was very exciting for me. Petersburg is beautiful in the snow.Also enjoyed listening to AFRICAN beat music in a FRENCH cafe in RUSSIA (I know...). It is funny how cultures combine and where you find yourself in different places you visit. Excellent company present made for a wonderful evening.
Friday night: Saw Гарри Поттер (Garry Potter) in a movie theater on Nevsky Prospect. The problem: the only place in Russia you can see Harry Potter in English is in Moscow. Which we found out (naturally) AFTER we bought tickets (at the theater which usually shows English movies with Russian subtitles instead of Russian dubbing). ANYWAY I'm so glad I didn't wait five weeks. It was really awesome to see it and enjoy the effects and plot despite not always being able to follow the fast dialog. Quickly learned some new words (most notably 'wand' is палочка; you can also use the word for baton or chopstick). And some of the translations are pretty hillarious. Sarcasm, for one, translates rather poorly.There isn't an "h" sound in the Russian language, so Russians generally have a hard time with that letter. My friend Heather gets called "Xiter" and "Xyetr" by most Russians. Anyway, to simplify matters Russia has changed "Harry" to "Garry", Hermione to "Germiona", and Hagrid to "Xagrid". It cracked me up sometimes to hear Emma Watson very seriously turn around and whisper "Garry!". A fun movie in any language!
До скорого,
Эмили
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